I had read about these tiny little streets in Tokyo lined with tiny little bars. In the New York Times article I had seen it said that many of them were for regulars only to such a degree that the regulars all keep their own glass at the bar. The most famous of this backstreet bar areas is called Piss Alley.
We didn't find piss alley, but on our first night we found this other one nearish to our hotel. Jenny read that they had been constructed during the war for this or that reason, and were supposed to be taken down after, but never were.
I really wanted to go into one, so we picked the least intimidating looking door, which had a Jack Daniels logo over it. Inside was basically a small bar with 8 to 10 stools up against it, and that's all.
It was done up like a biker bar and the bartender was this waify guy with super long black hair and lots of denim. Of course everyone (the two people in there) looked at us when we came in, but the bartender was perfectly accommodating. He served just whisky and beer and for each different drink he got out a block of ice and an ice pick and carved it up to fit specially into the glass.
The odd thing was that despite the tough look to the bar, he was playing the cheesiest japanese pop music. Isn't the weird!!???
By the time we left, the joint had reached max capacity, and they all enjoyed watching us try to signal for the cheque. Apparently you're supposed to make an 'x' with your two index fingers, but being as this was our first night we didn't know that yet. There was much waving of the hands and furrowing of brows.
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